I first finished the exhaust installation, some of the bolts on the hangers had not been torqued.
I then riveted the baffle seal, some sixty pop rivets to pull.
I now hav e to get the seal to the proper shape and fill all the voids with high temperature RTV.

Before working on the installation of the FAB, I have to cut the scoop on the lower cowl. It had been fabricated a tad too long. The idea is to have a 1/4' gap between the rear edge of the scoop and the forward edge of the FAB. After some work with a cutting disk, this is the result.



I then rivet the seal at the front. I used some proseal to get the seal to conform to the corners.



I then bolted the injection body to the engine and installed the FAB upper plate. The four bolts are installed with star washers and are safety tied. It would be a pity if one of them were to travel through the injection body to the engine.

Before bolting on the exhaust for good I decide to fabricate the small grommet shield for the manifold pressure hose firewall passthrough. This small task will prove more complex than expected despite following Tony Bingelis' instructions.
First thing is to mark the stainless steel sheet using some steel tube.



Then I press a socket into the tube to create the shape.



This is the result, the sheet will then be flattened, cut and drilled.



Stainless steel is not that easy to work but I also have some space problems for the screws, so I had to try a few times before getting the result below.



This is how it looks once installed on the firewall. I will put some sealant before final installation.



This is the cabin side, the screws are barely visible and will be shortened.



I then begin to work on the exhaust. First all the parts come off, then the joint and the studs are covered with antiseize paste. The picture shows the muffler parts inside the exhaust tube.



This picture shows the joint with the three bolts and springs holding the flanges together.



Some bolts need some tools and creative thinking to get torqued. Here I have a socket (1/4" because bigger won't do), a universal joint, an extension and then the torque wrench.

Before installing the baffles for good, I finish the firewall pass-throughs. This is the right side.



I then begin the installation of all the baffle screws. Some are quite difficult to install, for example this one behind the oil filler neck. After some tries, I decided to remove the oil filler neck.



And here the screw is installed.
I will have to redo the safety wire.



Another small problem in the front with the installation of the grommet protecting the propeller governor line. Getting the line and the nut through goes not without some problems.



Then I have to remove and reinstall the oil cooler for one bolt on the left.
I also reinstall the lower connecting rods and torque all the bolts.

I then route the wires coming from the cylinders (one EGT and one CHT each). They ride piggyback on the big cables I installed yesterday.



Then I fabricate the oil pressure sensor cables, other cables are included in the instrument's hardware.
I'va also installer the manifold pressure tubing.



I then fabricate the second ground cable going from the firewall to the engine. On one side the cable is bolted using a sump bolt, properly retorqued after installation. On the other side I had to rivet a nuplate on the firewall with some difficult access.