Next big step will be installing the engine, but two or three people will be needed for this operation? so I begin by having a look at the engine equipment.
As the engine is air-ccoled, the air must be forced through the engine and this is done by installing the baffles and their seals.
The whole parts are in the firewall kit. Ths instructions are very clear and allow to do some work with the parts on the work bench.
This begins with some cutting and deburring. The two parts in the picture will help create seven parts.



And the result after the cutting and debuuring. In the background the step by step instructions.



And this are all the parts to built the rear part of the baffles. On the left one can make out the shape of a cylinder cover.

I decided to install nutplates to bolt on the oil and fuel sensors bracket. It will be easier to unbolt the bracket if needed.
It took quite some time to drill, deburr and dimple the holes.

Before mounting all the available elements on the firewall, I first prime the heater box and the small headset jacks brackets.




ThenI bolt on the fixed part of the eyeballs.




Then I rivet the firewall recess and bolt the heater box. All this parts get sealed with my fire resistant seal which is not very easy to apply being very sticky.




I finish the session by reinstalling the battery and bolting the engine mount. Next operation will be to torque all the bolts and then put on the wheels.

There are some more holes to drill on the firewall, mainly for the engine controls : throttle and mixture. I use the Vans dimensions for carbureted engines.
The eyeballs are easy to install but a lot of holes have to be drilled, these is offset by the fact that this model can be installed by one person as the tightening is done from one side only. they were also quite cheap as I bought them during a special sale on some website.




The spherical part has to be drilled to the correct size. The picture shows the eyeball installed on the throttle for a test fitting.




Then I begin closing some gaps on the firewall, using 3M Firebarrier 2000 caulk. The caulk looks much like caulkd for the bathroom but seems a bit more sticky.
I close the hole near the brake fluid reservoir and the one near the gascolator.

Only one hour in the workshop today, it was enough to install the cabin heat valve. After some measuring I use the step bit to drill a 3/4" hole.




Then I use the 2,25" punch to make the bigger hole (it should be 2", but the tool is easy to use and the larger hole is of no consequences).




And the reseult after 30 seconds of work.




Then two holes were drilled for the mounting bolts, and the valve is installed.





And a picture from the cabin side, the lever is actuated via a cable.