As I have all the parts, I decide to fabricate the Pmag ignition harness.
On the ignition side, the cable has first to be inserted in the angles rubber boot.



Then the cable has to be carefully stripped and the pin crimped. The crimper was included with all the parts.



Then the pin is bent at 90° and the boot is pushed over the pin.



For the plug side it's easier. First strip the cable 1/4".



Then install the small spring, the nut, the silicon gland and the washer.



And a check for continuity as the cable core is easy to break. The resistance is shoube around 180 Ohms per foot, as the cable is 2'5" it looks good.



I the install various elements on the engine, more to have an idea how to organize everything and check I have all the needed hardware.
This is the oil pressure hose going from the engine to the manifold to be installed on the firewall.



I the install seals for the upper plugs ignition wires, the holes seem a bit too small, I'll have to enlarge them slightly.



I the bolt the oil cooler to the firewall, only to notice that the fittings' orientation interferes with the engine mount.

I begin by installing the rear baffle that has to be drilled for the fuel hose going from the injection block to the injection spider.
The picture shows the result.



Then I installed some clamps to hold the ignition cables for the lower plugs.



I then wanted to fabricate the harness for the electronic ignition, but the parts I had did not match those in the installation manual. I took this picture to sort this out with Mattituck or Emagair.
Even if the parts are correct I'm missing one of the silicon glands.



A visit to the EMagair website showed that the installation manual has been updated and that my parts are correct. I now have to find one of those silicone glands.

The foam block being glued to the scoop, it's time to make the cut. Here, the begining.



And now the cut is finished. The picture shows the the foam doens not extend completely to the airbox. This is not really a problem.
A run into trouble when I began sanding the foam as it is very fragile. I wasn't carefull enough and am not satisfied with the result. So I glued another foam block and am back to square one.

I received the hose i needed to complete the exhaust hanging. After having checked all the gaps I used some black electrical tape to mark the position of the clamps.

Another day working only on the air filter box, and some suprises on the way.
First I begin by doing what I should have done yesterday, i.e make a template for the upper plate.
Here it is on the right with the original plate on the left. It show that the holes for the bolts are shiffted to the right.



Once all installed on the plane, there is a problem. As the bolts are no more at the center of the box, they are no more at the center of the filter. The top of the filter interfers with the two left bolts. Some builders have to modify their filter due to an interference with the carburetor, this technique is described so I will apply it : cut the top of the filter and the creat a new seal with some proseal.



Before cutting the filter, I verify that all the parts fit and that the gap with the moving parts are wide enough.
This is the mixture control arm with the hardware nedded to attach the cable. All looks good but I will have to check again the gap between the bolt and the cowl once everything is in the final position.



Then I make the cuts at the front of the box. The box is too long and would hinder the lower cowl removal. The picture shows the plate allready cut, but the cut on the fiberglass part is still to be done.



Then it's time to cut the top of the air filter. The picture shows the two cuts, and the good surprise is that the seal is still a seal, I didnit to cut completely through it so I won't have to redo the seal.



Then I install the alternate air door. This door can only be opened in flight to ensure air supply to the engine should the main air supply be blocked (by snow, ice or any other object). The opening will draw unfiltered air from the engine compartment.
Once open, it is supposed to be left that way and only closed on the ground



And to finish, I riveted the lower plate to the air box. The rivets used are small round head rivets used for the first time since the beginning of the building.
I now have to cut the upper plate according to the template and extend the scoop on the lower cowl toward the front of the air box.