Today I worked on the flaps wiring.
It's a bit complicated by the fact that I use a flaps positionning system.
But first things first, I test the system with the flaps positionning system disabled, as I would do in case of malfunction of the system.
I then reconfigure the wiring to use the flaps positionning system. As it needs the flaps position I install and wire the position sensor.



I then test and program the system. It's not without some little snags due to the fact that the CPU has only a single programming button and a LED. But after a few tries, I manage to get some satisfactory results and can test the whole system.



The flaps position is also transmitted through the EIS to the EFISes. After some tweaking the EFIS shows a bargraph with the flaps position. Here they are approximately one third down.

One hour to update the software on both EFISes and run some tests and fiddle with the setup.

I first make the markings for the fuse blocks (some picture anotrher time).
I then switch on the AOA indicator. I perform the tests that are possible without having connected the intercom ands the flaps.



I then switch on the autopilot and suprise, the fuse melts. After some investigation work I find out that I didn't put a connector on the aileron servo harness and all the pins were in conatct with each other, the short was inevitable.
Once there was a connector installed, the result looks much better.
I perform some tests to see if the connexions between the Garmin 496 and the EFIS GPS are working. I also tested the pitch servo which seems to be working. There are still a lot of tests to perform once all the parts are installed.

I first install some missing items on the panel, this is the EIS whowe purpose it to collect all the data from the sensors.
I try to explore the setup to check if it's functional. The picture shows the MAP at 29,7 inHg and the AMPs whose value is not correct.



I want to check that the EIS is communicating with the EFIS. After a few tries the outcome is positive.
The screen shows the MAP at 29,70inHg, the EGT, CHT and OAT around 70°.
It also shows the voltage.
There is still a lot left to do to get all the settings correct.







I then decide to test the battery and starter relay.
No problem for the battery relay, but the starter relay refuses to "click". After some research I find that the problem is an incorrectly soldered wire on the start button.
After having soldered the wire back, the relay clicks finally.

The essential bus wiring is straightforward as there are only a few wires left over to crimp. I had to replace one of the wires from the panel that I had cut too short, but it proved to be a non-event.