Only one hour in the workshop to redo the safety wire on the pitch servo control. First I put some blue Loctite on the bolts and then I use a smaller gage wire which proved easier to install.

I first installed the strobe control box.



Then I installed the autopilot pitch servo. I needed to play with some washers to get enough clearance from the structure for all the parts.
Installing the safety wire was not very easy, I'll see next time if it's not better to redo it.

Today I finished the nutplates and other holes on the rear part. I thought intalling some of the nuplates would be interesting and it was. There is no access for dimpling, so I had to countersink the skins. One hole proved impossible to rivet, so I used a pop rivet (see bottom left).
For the gap fairings, the holes have to be countersunk and the tapped. As this is aluminium, I will be careful not to apply to much torque on the screws, and use Loctite.



Here is the right fairing gap, the seal has still to be installed
Then I put all the empennage parts back into storage.

After a long time, I'm back in the workshop. I'm still working on the empennage fairing. The left side is tweaked a bit by heating the part and tying it down. Then I drill all the holes. There will be some more work to do, but only when it will be fiberglass time.



Then I remove the whole empennage from the fuselage. A lot of nutplates have to be installed : 12 on the vertical stab, 10 on the horizontal stab, 8 for the inspection plates and 7 on the fuselage.



On the fuselage I only made the drilling and deburring. I think the dimpling and riveting will be interesting as there is little access.

Two hours to adjust the empennage fairing, the first picture show the initial state.



The next picture shows the fairing after cutting of 1/2 inch with a cutting disk, the grinding away the excess, before finishing the edges with a sanding block.



The fairing looks quite good, there is some small waork to be done at the back end. There is also a gap at the front left (not very visible on the picture).



Squeezing the part with the thumb is enough tp close the gap, so I think light sanding on the inside of the part should solve the problem.